Brewed Beverage of Choice: Uber-geek Altbier on tap at CPR (my signature ale at the brewery)
He who drinks it for the very first time might experience its true delight only after the third or fourth sip. We are referring to the spicy, bitter Dusseldorf altbier. To Dusseldorfers, this top-fermented beer is a drink from the gods. - Dr. Paul Kauhausen 1950
As Americans we are in love with the excessive especially when it comes to our beers. Give us the big and hoppy! This is at least true in the Northwest. But across the states, most of your standard microbrews weigh in at 5+% alcohol by volume. If said beer is below that 5% or has some strange name, we look down upon the pint and refuse to partake in it. This is unfortunate for some of the best beers in the world fall into the former category and are underappreciated by most of the beer-swilling American public. And it is here we find the Dusseldorf Altbier.
Alt, the German word for old, simple refers to the time in Germany before the lager (bottom-fermented beers) took over the brewing landscape. It is a medium amber or brown in colour with a pleasant spiciness and bitterness - similar to the bitterness of an E.S.B. from Britian - and a wonderful fruity/floral aroma. Its flavour is a complementary mix of this bitterness and maltiness with hints of fruit notes. But what sets the Alt apart from the E.S.B. is how it is fermented. Both are top-fermented, but the Alt is fermented at lower temperatures (60-64F) and lagered (aged in cold storage) for 1 to 2 months giving it a crisp, clean finish. The Alt is also served in a 200mL Becher and meant to be consumed quickly before it warms. As a geek and a brewer, the alt is one of my favourite beers to make and drink.
From my research and what I have been told, my familial roots come from the Westphalia region of Germany - the area which includes Cologne (Kolschbier) and Dusseldorf, the home of the Alt. And while I was not raised in a traditional German background, Westphalia has always been flowing through my veins. Plus as an historian, the style particularly speaks to me because of its historical traditions.
Not every brewer can make an alt. As a brewer, this is my greatest and most favourite challenge. Alts are an art form in patience and creativity. Determining the best malts and hops as well as a keen, clear mind are the key factors in creating this misunderstood ale. When I go about brewing my altbier I make sure there are little distractions; I have great attention to detail; and I make sure I tap into the Westphalian genes to give it my own stamp.
For those of you who want to seek out this pleasurable quaff, you must be ready for adventure because you will not find this beer on your local grocers shelf. Every big city in America has a great bottle shop and will carry a good selection of altbiers. Whole Foods here in PDX has Diebels in the bottle. For those of you in the Northeast and the Midwest, alts will be easier to find at your local brewpubs and drinking establishments because of the vast German-American heritage.
There are some perfectly good American versions of the Alt such as Alaskan Amber (a perfect example of changing the name to sell beer…it is called amber rather than alt) or Schell’s Schmaltz Alt…Or if you are in Hillsboro, Oregon, you may partake in my Uber-Geek at the Roadhouse. But the best examples of this style come from the Continent. I have already mentioned Diebels, but the freshest, cleanest example is Uerige Alt. There are two versions on the market right now: the original and the sticke (secret). (If you want to know more about some of the hisorical traditions, including the secret alt, or if you find a good American example I may not have tried, email me at confucianbrewer@confucianbrewer.com.) Uerige comes in an unusual looking bottle with a ceramic flip top.
The underappreciated beers like the Dusseldorf Altbier are usually the most satisfying because of the adventure involved in finding them, the art it takes to create an alt, and because they stress flavour over alcohol content. So now it is time to set you kiddies on your merry way to enjoy a becher of altbier. And have one for me as well.
Prost!
the confucian (altbier) brewer